The History of the Long Dress and Why We Wear It

Introduction:
I'm sure you've seen the long dress make a big comeback in the fashion world. More and more designers are bringing out new lines of long dresses, and long dresses are all over the runway. You might wonder why the long dress is making a comeback. Where did the long dress originate? Why did women stop wearing long dresses? Where did they go? Where did they come back from? We will discuss the history of the long dress, and why we wear it.
1. What is a long dress?
A long dress is a standard women's dress silhouette that hangs down to the floor. The length is often ankle-length, but can also be tea-, ballerina-, or floor-length. Historically, a woman's dress was a symbol of her station in life. Women of high status wore long dresses because they could afford the extra fabric and the time to sew a dress that hung all the way to the ground. For the less fortunate, a long dress was a mark of wealth and privilege. Today, we can still see a long dress as a sign of elegance and luxury. They often wear it for formal events, such as weddings or galas.

Illustration of 18th century French women

What Historical Clothing Pieces Are Considered Part of the Evolution of Dresses?

The evolution of dresses is a fascinating journey through history, reflecting cultural shifts and trends. Historically, several types of apparel have contributed to what we now recognize as dresses:

• Corsets: Worn to shape and support the torso.
• Kirtles: A garment worn over a chemise or smock, often in medieval and Renaissance periods.
• Partlets: A small piece of fabric worn over the chest and shoulders, typically in the 16th century.
• Petticoats: Undergarments providing volume to skirts and dresses.
• Smocks: Simple, loose-fitting undergarments, predecessors to modern slips.
• Stomachers: Decorative or functional panels worn over the chest, often part of a bodice.

Each of these pieces played a crucial role in shaping the silhouette and style of dresses over the centuries. Understanding these garments gives us a richer appreciation for the fashions we enjoy today.

2. How long did it take for women to adopt the long dress?
It took quite some time for women to adopt the long dress as their go-to outfit. Mostly, women were still wearing skirts and blouses well into the early 1900s. It was not until the 1920s that the long dress really took off. We can attribute this to several factors, including the rise of women's suffrage, the flapper movement and the general trend towards more relaxed and comfortable clothing. Once women had the right to vote and expressed themselves more freely through their clothing, it was only natural that the long dress would become popular. It has since remained a mainstay in women's fashion, with only minor modifications over the years.

• Timeline of adoption of the long dress
• Prevalence of skirts and blouses until the early 1900s
• Factors influencing adoption: women's suffrage, the flapper movement, and relaxed clothing trends
• Long dress becoming a staple in women's fashion

Paul Poiret's Influence on Early 20th Century Women's Dress Designs

At the dawn of the 20th century, women's fashion began to shift dramatically. One of the key figures behind this transformation was French designer Paul Poiret. Poiret played a significant role in moving away from the restrictive Edwardian silhouette to a more liberated and straighter form.

Key Contributions:

• Innovative Designs: Poiret's creations introduced a new sense of freedom in women's clothing. He abandoned the corset, a staple of the Edwardian era, in favor of looser, more flowing garments. This allowed for greater comfort and movement.

• Widespread Availability: Unlike many designers of his time, Poiret's fashion didn't remain exclusive to high society. His designs were accessible to a broader audience through their availability in boutiques and department stores, democratizing high fashion.

• Pioneering Techniques: Poiret employed techniques and cuts that were groundbreaking at the time. His use of exotic fabrics and vibrant colors added a fresh appeal to women’s wardrobes.

Paul Poiret's impact was profound, setting the stage for future design revolutions and changing the landscape of women’s fashion forever.

How Did the Gibson Girl Popularize a New Dress Style in the Early 20th Century?

The Gibson Girl, an iconic figure created by illustrator Charles Dana Gibson, revolutionized fashion in the early s. This idealized image of feminine beauty significantly influenced the dress style of the era.

Key Attributes of the Gibson Girl Style:

• S-Shaped Silhouette: One of the most distinctive features was the "S-curve" silhouette. Dresses featured a "pigeon breast" top that billowed outward before cinching in at a tightly corseted waist, creating an elegant, flowing shape.
• Versatile Designs: Outfits were often referred to as a "waist" for one-piece dresses or "shirtwaist" for a combination of a separate blouse and skirt. This versatility made the style adaptable for various occasions.
• Feminine and Flattering: The style emphasized a feminine form, with garments designed to accentuate a woman's curves while maintaining a sophisticated and poised appearance.

Impact on Women's Fashion:

1. Mainstream Appeal: Widely published in popular magazines, the Gibson Girl became the archetype of the modern woman, making the trend accessible and desirable to a broad audience.
2. Adoption by Manufacturers: Fashion designers and clothing manufacturers quickly adopted the style, mass-producing garments that emulated the Gibson Girl look.
3. Cultural Shift: The popularity of this fashion heralded a cultural shift, encouraging women to adopt a more active and public lifestyle while still remaining graceful and stylish.

By embodying the essence of elegance and modernity, the Gibson Girl's style left an enduring mark on early 20th-century fashion, setting a precedent for future trends.

The Suffragette Suit: A Revolutionary Wardrobe Staple

The suffragette suit was a pivotal development in women's fashion during the early 20th century. Designed by progressive tailors, it was crafted to support the active roles women were beginning to take in society, particularly within the suffrage movement.

What was the Suffragette Suit?

• Practicality: The suit was tailored to be functional yet stylish, allowing women to move freely and comfortably throughout their busy days.
• Design: Typically, the suit included a tailored jacket and a skirt that was more practical than the voluminous garments of the time. This made it easier for women to work and participate in public activities.

Why was it Significant?

1. Empowerment Through Fashion: The suffragette suit symbolized women's growing independence and their fight for equal rights. It was more than just clothing; it was a statement of resilience and determination.
2. Functional Freedom: At a time when women's fashion often restricted movement, the suffragette suit offered a liberating alternative, facilitating greater participation in work and activism.
3. Cultural Shift: This garment reflected a broader shift in societal norms, as it became increasingly acceptable for women to engage in activities outside the domestic sphere.

By merging practicality with symbolism, the suffragette suit became more than just attire—it was an emblem of a social revolution, representing the strides toward gender equality and the breaking of traditional norms

3. How did the style and types of long dresses change over the years?

• Evolution of the long dress over centuries
• Transition from exclusive wear by the wealthy to widespread popularity
• Variety of long dress styles and their suitability for different occasions

The Rational Dress Society emerged in the late 19th century, specifically expressing its discontent with the constrictive fashion norms of that era. Formed in 1881, the group strongly opposed the restrictive dresses that women were expected to wear, advocating instead for more practical and comfortable clothing. Their reaction was driven by a desire to free women from the physical limitations and health risks posed by tight corsets and cumbersome skirts. Through public campaigns and meetings, the Rational Dress Society championed attire that allowed greater freedom of movement and better overall well-being, aiming to revolutionize women's fashion for the better.

How Christian Dior's New Look Revolutionized Women's Fashion After World War II

After World War II, Christian Dior introduced the groundbreaking "New Look" that dramatically transformed women's fashion. Debuting in 1947, this revolutionary style marked a bold departure from the wartime austerity that had dominated women's clothing.

Features of the New Look:

• Nipped-in waists: Dior's designs emphasized a slim, accentuated waist, which contrasted sharply with the boxy, practical silhouettes of the 1940s.
• Full skirts: The New Look featured voluminous, flowing skirts that fell just below the knee, creating a feminine and luxurious appearance.
• Soft, rounded shoulders: Moving away from the padded shoulders of wartime garments, Dior's designs focused on natural, softer contours.

Impact on Women's Fashion:

1. Return to Femininity: Dior's New Look reintroduced an ultra-feminine style, celebrating curves and delicate features. This was a refreshing change from the utilitarian clothing worn during the war.
2. Material Use: The lavish use of fabrics in Dior's designs was a stark contrast to the fabric rationing of the wartime era. This abundance signified prosperity and indulgence.
3. Influence on Other Designers: Prominent designers like Hubert de Givenchy and Pierre Balmain soon adopted elements of the New Look, spreading its influence across the fashion industry.

Christian Dior's New Look wasn't merely a trend—it was a cultural reset. By emphasizing elegance, luxury, and femininity, it set the stage for modern fashion and became a lasting symbol of post-war optimism and creativity.

The Evolution of Women’s Dresses During the Victorian Era

The Victorian era witnessed significant changes in women’s fashion, marked by evolving designs and new influences.

Early Victorian Era: Practicality Meets Modesty
In the American West, women initially wore floor-length, white cotton dresses designed for sleeping. These garments featured high collars and subtle decoration, prioritizing modesty and practicality.

Influences and Adaptations

Native American Influence
As the European American dress styles gained prominence, Native American women, including those from Navajo and Mescalero Apache tribes, began to adopt these designs. By integrating their own aesthetics, Navajo women created unique garments that combined European structures with indigenous beauty, known as "hózhó."

Introduction of Sewing Patterns

Innovation in Dressmaking (1860s)
A transformative moment in women’s fashion occurred in the 1860s when sewing patterns became widely accessible. For the first time, patterns graded by size allowed women to more easily create fitted, stylish clothing at home.

Victorian Fashion Highlights

Tight-Fitting Silhouettes and Ornate Decor
During the Victorian era, dresses were characterized by their tight fit and elaborate decorations, including pleats, rouching, and frills. These intricate details became synonymous with Victorian femininity and style.

Dress Reform Movement

Reaction to Restrictive Clothing (1850s-1880s)
The 1850s saw a burgeoning dress reform movement, where some American women began advocating for less restrictive clothing. The Rational Dress Society, established in 1881, epitomized this movement. They criticized the era's constrictive fashion and championed more practical attire.

In summary, women's dresses during the Victorian era evolved from simple, practical designs to highly ornate and fitted garments. Influences from indigenous cultures and innovations like graded sewing patterns played key roles, while reform movements eventually challenged the confines of Victorian fashion.

French afternoon dress, circa 1903, cotton and silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York City)

World War II had a significant impact on women's dress styles, primarily driven by practical needs and resource constraints.

The Rise of Slimmer Dresses

At the onset of the war, fabric rationing became essential, leading to the adoption of slimmer, more streamlined dresses. These outfits were often inspired by military uniforms, featuring simple lines and minimal embellishments. The austerity of wartime fashion mirrored the frugality required by the circumstances.

Post-War Fashion Boom

After the war ended, there was a noticeable shift in women's fashion. The desire for a return to glamour and femininity led to the emergence of styles that contrasted sharply with wartime simplicity. These new dresses were characterized by luxurious fabrics and more elaborate designs.

Evolution and Influence

• Utility to Elegance: The transition from the utilitarian feel of wartime clothing to the elegant silhouettes of the post-war era marked a significant evolution.
• Economic Optimism: The increased availability of materials and a burgeoning sense of prosperity encouraged designers to experiment more freely, leading to diverse and innovative styles.

World War II, thus, reshaped women's fashion by blending practicality with emerging post-war opulence, setting the stage for the dynamic trends that followed.

4. Why did we stop wearing long dress?
So why did we stop wearing long dresses? It seems like something so comfortable and flattering, so why don't we see them as often anymore? There are a few plausible explanations. For one, we can see the long dress as impractical. It's hard to do everyday things like go to the bathroom or run errands when you're wearing a floor-length skirt. It's also seen as outdated and traditional, which may not be desirable to some women. Finally, the long dress can be seen as stuffy or formal, which might make people feel uncomfortable or too dressed up.

Empire dress, 1800–1805, cotton and linen, Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York City)
5. Why did we start wearing long dresses again?
So why are long dresses making a comeback? Some people might say it's because of the #MeToo and #TimesUp movements, which have brought attention to the importance of women feeling comfortable and empowered in their own skin. There's a new appreciation for the power and beauty of feminine modesty, and long dresses can help to convey that message. They're also a great way to show off your fashion sense and style, while still keeping things modest. Whether you're headed to a formal event or just want to feel a bit more glamourous, a long dress is the perfect way to do it.

1. What is a long dress?
A long dress is a standard women's dress silhouette that hangs down to the floor. The length is often ankle-length, but can also be tea-, ballerina-, or floor-length. Historically, a woman's dress was a symbol of her station in life. Women of high status wore long dresses because they could afford the extra fabric and the time to sew a dress that hung all the way to the ground. For the less fortunate, a long dress was a mark of wealth and privilege. Today, we can still see a long dress as a sign of elegance and luxury. They often wear it for formal events, such as weddings or galas.

The Historical Significance and Evolution of Dresses
The dress has always been more than just a garment; it has served as a symbol of femininity and elegance throughout history. Dresses come in a myriad of designs, colors, lengths, and sizes, making them a versatile staple in any wardrobe. Whether it’s a casual sundress or a sophisticated evening gown, each style has its unique place in a woman's fashion arsenal.

Dresses have evolved significantly through the ages. Initially, dresses were outer garments made up of a bodice and a skirt, sometimes crafted in one piece or more. The transformation of dresses over time has been enormous, but their fundamental role has remained the same: to make women feel beautiful and elegant inside and out.

Types and Versatility of Dresses
One of the fascinating aspects of dresses is their versatility. You can find dresses that make you look sporty or sophisticated, suitable for different occasions and times of the day. This adaptability allows for easy combination with various types of clothing.

In historical contexts, dresses also encompassed other types of garments such as corsets, kirtles, partlets, petticoats, smocks, and stomachers. These layers added to the complexity and richness of women's fashion throughout different eras.

Impact on Mood and Self-Expression
The influence of a dress goes beyond its physical appearance. Wearing a dress can significantly affect a woman's mood and how she feels about herself. This emotional and psychological impact is part of what makes dresses an enduring and irreplaceable element of women's fashion.

By merging historical significance with modern-day versatility, dresses continue to be a powerful expression of style, personality, and femininity. Whether long or short, formal or informal, the dress remains a quintessential piece that tells a story of both tradition and individual expression.

Conclusion:
The long dress has a rich history that began in Ancient Greece and continued to change and adapt as we progressed through the centuries. However, it wasn't until the 20th century that its popularity declined. Today, we're seeing a huge resurgence of long dresses among women who value modesty and who want to look beautiful without compromising their values.
-W.Nasri - xoxo

Photo Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dress#History